https://latticetraining.com/blog/how-to-get-finger-strength-like-aidan-roberts-the-vacuum-style/
Hips and Hamstrings
Supine frog
Open up the hips: Lay on back with knees bent 90 degrees and feet against a wall.
- 90s - 120s holds
- repeat 3 times
- weights (5kg - 10kg) to balance on knees
Weighted pancake bend
Open up the hamstrings: Start in standing straddle with back against wall. Bend forward while holding a weight.
- 3 sets of 6 moving slowly
- pause 1-2 seconds at end of range
- 2 minutes rest between sets
- 0 to 5kg
- Progress once meeting horizontal: moving feet further from wall to eventually be sitting.
Shoulders
Prone external rotations
Helps with shoulder rotation for pulling into the wall. Focus on the end range of the motion as that's what will help for climbing.
Base phase
- 10 reps for 3 sets
- 2 minutes rest
Max phase
- higher insensity weight
- 3 reps for 4 sets
- 2 minutes rest
Prone military press
Helps with retraction of the shoulders: Lay with stomach on floor
Base phase
- 10 reps for 3 sets
- 2 minutes rest
Max phase
- higher insensity weight
- 3 reps for 4 sets
- 2 minutes rest